Without hampering creativity or style, designers at Milan Fashion Week treated denim with the same level of care and craftsmanship that Italy’s tailoring and leather industries are renowned for.
While there was no shortage of effortlessly cool blue jeans – Cormio, GCDS and Missoni were among the brands that provided the staples – the event filled the space for statement pieces that Fashion Week New York and London Fashion Week have been left mostly empty.
And in the case of Bottega Veneta, leather was used to create trompe-l’œil jeans. Under the new direction of creative director Matthieu Blazy, the brand has looked back to its leather heritage by presenting tailored jeans and white shirts in printed nubuck leather. The seemingly streamlined designs stole the show, despite a runway filled with platform heels and stunning fringed skirts.
For Fendi, dark-washed trouser jeans with front pleats were the perfect companion to leather bustiers. The brand also presented a chic denim and leather handbag.
Other styles showcased the fashion houses’ talent for traditional tailoring techniques. Etro raised baggy jeans with crisp tonal patchwork designs. Colville approached the look by putting together dark stonewashed fabrics with light. A sparkly top accented Palm Angels’ ripped and patched baggy jeans.
In addition to cropped denim jackets and shirts, Act N.1 separated denim and pulled it together with safety pins and couture fabrics in a show that featured a diverse cast. The brand also included a denim bustier, which became a new “It” item.
Des Phemmes’ pink, swirl-print jeans nodded to the year 2000 without delving into the era, which is exactly what Diesel did in its debut show at Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Glenn Martens presented a denim-heavy collection, including evergreen styles from Diesel Library, in a provocative set filled with giant inflatable designs.
Highlights included a denim bralette, low rise jeans with shredded waistbands, wrap skirts with micro lengths, a denim trench coat and a “denim fur” covered coat. Sheer overlays added shine to jeans and shirts, while other pieces featured 3D Diesel logos.
“The power of Diesel is that we talk to so many people,” Martens said. “We can push sustainability and innovation, and we can push experimentation and concept.”
Sheer overlays enhanced the liquid look of these low-rise wide-leg jeans from Versace. The fashion house paired a denim corset top and mini skirt with a deconstructed tweed bow.
Another Y2K fashion advocate, Blumarine, returned with low-rise jeans in popstar pink and bling-out belt buckles. MSGM opted for sparkles and star patterns, along with metallic green coatings. Meanwhile, Ferrari has vouched for Y2K colors applying yellow and pink filament prints on denim jackets, jeans and lightly washed skirts.
The two-tone jeans were part of Dhruv Kapoor’s “Soul Tech” collection which included a combination of new recycled and bespoke textiles. A cropped jacket and long wrap skirt featured a digitized floral print. Kapoor was one of many designers finding inspiration in the ever-growing virtual world.
In a metaverse-inspired collection, Annakiki presented baggy jeans decorated with random pleats, material mixes, rips, cargo pockets and horizontal fringing that served as a subversive alternative to stripes.
Trussardi added pocket-like cargo pockets to skinny jeans, while Diesel applied the utilitarian detail to denim boot-pants.